Ama dablam peak 2011(2068bs)...

Introduction about Ama Dablam 22494 feet / 6856 meters:

Ama Dablam (6,812m) means "Mother and her Necklace" is best seen from Tengboche. It extends to the left to include a west ridge with a peak of 6135m elevations, which resembles Ama Dablam greatly. That Ama Dablam, which does not even attain 7000m in elevation, is famous probably due to its strange, distinctive shape as well as its visibility from any point along Imja Khola. Ama Dablam forms a lasting impression on many trekkers in Nepal, as it is perhaps the most stunning mountain along the popular trekking route to Everest Base Camp. This expedition offers a superb, technical climbing experience in a magnificent setting, with numerous cultural and scenic diversions.

Ama Dablam is technically harder for climbing and has it all: ice, rock, scrambling, killer views, great approach, and a great base camp in a meadow with a stream. The expedition is not a "guided" ascent. It will be a professionally led team of competent mountaineers who have enough experience to climb one of the world's most sought after mountains without undue risk. This approach ensures that team members are suitably experienced, reasonably self-sufficient and capable and willing to move between camps unsupervised. You will still have a high level of support, starting with strong, confident leadership; this will maximize your chances of success without undermining the quality of your achievement. If you have the necessary experience and wish to participate fully as a team member of an expertly led expedition to one of the world's most impressive mountains, this could be the trip for you!

Normally, three camps are set in the approach above the base camp (4,570m), however; only two camps are used to spend the night. Our route will be by the original line of ascent, the South West Ridge. This gives a fine and varied climb, sustained at a reasonable level of difficulty and with good camp platforms at strategic points. The ascent from Base Camp to camp I is considered one the difficult days of the expedition. You have to follow old grassy moraine ridges passing through a saddle and then turning to north climbing up rocky ground and through boulders to the ridge where camp I will be set up. From camp I, you have to cross a rocky bowl and climb the ridge frequently alternating the sides along the fixed lines to the camp II. Climbing the ridge involves severe rock climbing which leads to the top of a yellow tower. The climbing route here from camp II changes significantly with the steep mixed gullies of rock, ice and snow. The route leads to the ramp and climbs to an amphitheater and then passes through steep snow and ice runnel and finally, along the snow ridge to reach camp III. The summit from camp III requires steep climb on snow and ice to the right of a huge hanging glacier.

Experience Required:
The Ama Dablam expedition is one of the most technically difficult expeditions. The climbers need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills to climb through steep rock and hard water ice.

Why the South West ridge?
The easiest way to the top of Ama Dablam is via the SW ridge, a technical route, and considered to be the standard route. Although there are several other routes on the mountain, they are all very much harder than the SW ridge. The route has been considered to be a safe route, free from objective danger, such as avalanche. It is a varied and interesting route with loads of superb climbing - not just a huge snow slog, unlike other Himalayan climbs. On Ama Dablam, the hardest pitches of technical rock and ice climbing are not sustained but tend to come in short manageable sections.

Expedition Timing:
Our expedition takes place during the early winter season. One of the main benefits of this is that we avoid the congestion that occurs on the SW Ridge during the highly popular pre and post monsoon seasons. Having many teams on the mountain at the same time prevents freedom of movement, causes overcrowded campsites, increases objective dangers and reduces the quality of the overall mountain experience.

November and December are characterized by cold but settled weather, giving good climbing conditions and fabulous views. While temperatures are lower than during the main climbing seasons there is less precipitation and the skies tend to be clearer. This is borne out by the considerable success of recent winter expeditions to Ama Dablam.

Ama Dablam (22494 feet / 6856 meters) expedition itinerary:

Day-01: Arrive Kathmandu, Transfer to the Hotel & welcome dinner in the eveningn
Day 02 - 04: Stay in Kathmandu for official formalities & preparation for the expedition
Day-05: Kathmandu - Lukla (2860m) - fly in the morning for 45 minutes then Commence trek to Phakding (2600m- 4 hours.

The 45-minute flight from Kathmandu to Lukla is one of the most spectacular flights in the world. The sixteen-seater Twin Otter takes us east into the heart of Sherpa country, giving us views of the peaks of the Khumbu region, including Everest and Ama Dablam. The landing on the tiny airstrip at Lukla is, to put it mildly, exciting.  Soon after landing, we set off along the famous trail to Everest Base Camp. From Lukla 9,184 ft (2,800 m), we walk northwest and descend to the river at Phakding 8,698 ft (2,652 m), where we camp for the night.

Day-06:   Phakding - Namche Bazaar (3446m) - 6½ hours.
Setting off early in the morning, we follow the river before climbing the steep hill to Namche Bazaar. Hopefully, we get our first views of Everest and Lhotse as we approach Namche. We reach the town after about six hours' walking. Namche is the most prosperous and largest settlement in the Khumbu. It is the capital of the Sherpa population, a people who closely resemble the Tibetans in looks and culture. Namche is a vibrant town with many shops and several restaurants and lodges. Superb mountain scenery makes an impressive backdrop.

We are likely to feel breathless from the altitude, as Namche is 11,300 ft (3,445 m) above sea level. To assist acclimatization we spend two nights here.

Day-07:   Namche Bazar, one-day rest for acclimatization.

Day-08:   Namche Bazaar - Tengboche (3867m) - 6½ hours.
We start the day by contouring northeast, high above the Dudh Kosi. From early in the morning, we have superb views of Ama Dablam as we descend through rhododendron forest towards the river. We cross the Dudh Kosi at Phungithanga and climb to the saddle at the top of a hill. Here lies Tengboche, the main monastery of the Khumbu area. The monastery has recently been rebuilt following a fire that totally destroyed it in 1989. There are panoramic views of the main peaks of the Khumbu, including Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. We camp in Tengboche at 12,670ft (3,867m) after six and half hours walking.

Day 09: Tengboche - Base Camp
We continue up the valley towards Everest Base Camp for about two hours before turning right up a smaller valley which leads first to the small hamlet of Mingbo and then to base camp, nearby. This is an idyllic spot from which the majority of the route is visible. Base camp is at an altitude of about 15,000ft (4,570m) and provides a comfortable escape from the rigours of the climb. Our porters deposit their loads and leave us here for the next 3 weeks, with only our Sirdar, Sherpas and Liaison Officer remaining.

Day 10 - 30: Climbing period.
It is impossible to predict the exact day-by-day itinerary for this period. The team will be broken down into climbing groups who will work on the mountain for several days at a time before returning for a rest at base camp. While one group is pushing out the route and fixing ropes, another may be carrying loads to higher camps.  

A description of the route up the South West Ridge of Ama Dablam is as follows:

Base Camp (4950 meters) to Advanced Base camp  (5500m): Ama Dablam is one of the few Himalayan peaks that can be reached without crossing a glacier. We climb a long ridge-slope; cross a boulder field and scramble up rock slopes to reach the SW ridge where we will place advanced base camp. Camp 1 should now be visible just below 5,705m. At the end of the boulder field, slabs are crossed and then a short gully ascended, which allows access to the ridge proper in a very exposed position. Easy scrambling on the east side of the ridge leads quickly to Camp 1 5,700m. There are four or five tent platforms.

Advanced Base camp to Camp 1 (5700 meters): We scramble across a large ridge system, which lies at the head of the Mingbo valley. The slope is steep here, but the climbing is not technical. We place our tent at the base of a large boulder on the ridge proper.  

Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5950m): We climb along a horizontal rock ridge and around several pinnacles (Severe, or 5.6) gaining only 100m vertical. The exposure is huge, with especially massive drop-offs on the north side of the ridge. The climbing is mostly enjoyable with a good quality of granite. At the end of the horizontal ridge we climb the Yellow Tower (two pitches Severe, or 5.5), above which we place Camp 2 on ledges and a rock pinnacle. Camp 2 may also be a bivouac, if the limited tent spaces are already taken.

Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6230 m):  A steep snow ridge is climbed to the Grey Tower, a 20m-rock step (Severe, or 5.6). Then 3 pitches in an ice chute are climbed to regain the ridge and climb the second rock step to the mushroom ridge. This is followed to the upper face where camp 3 is made on a broad snow and rock terrace to the side of the Dablam. Camp 3 is often a bivouac.

Camp 3 to Summit (6812m): 2 pitches of dramatic 40+ degree ice are climbed to the side of the Dablam to reach the fluted snowfields that lead to one of the worlds finest summits, with stunning views of the south Face of Lhotse, Nuptse, Mount Everest and the Khumbu Himal.

Sample Itinerary for the ascending Mt. Ama Dablam:

• Walk to Base Camp (4950 meters)...6 hrs
• Rest in Base camp or walk to Advanced Basecamp (5500 meters), return and sleep in base camp.
• Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in advanced Basecamp
• Explore route to camp 1 (5700 meters), return and sleep in Basecamp.
• Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in advanced Basecamp.
• Scramble to Camp 1, sleep in camp 1.
• Explore route to camp 2 (5950 meters), return and sleep in Basecamp.
• Relax in Basecamp.
• Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in advanced Basecamp.
• Scramble to Camp 1, sleep in camp 1.
• Climb to Camp 2, sleep in camp 2.
• Explore route to Camp 3 (6230 meters), return and sleep in Basecamp.
• Relax in Basecamp.
• Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in advanced Basecamp.
• Climb to Camp 2, sleep in camp 2.
• Climb to camp 3, sleep in camp 3.
• Summit Attempt.
• Summit Attempt.
• Return to Basecamp.
• Pack up Basecamp, walk down to Pangboche, sleep in tea house or  camp.

Day 31 - 33: Return back to Lukla
We retrace our steps via Thyangboche, Namche Bazaar and Phakding to arrive back in Lukla ready for the flight to Kathmandu.

Day 34: Fly back to Kathmandu and rest at the hotel
Day 35: Hand over the garbage and take back deposit from government
Day 36: Depart from hotel and transfer to the Kathmandu airport for international flight. 

Fact Box about Ama Dablam 22494 feet / 6856 meter
Elevation	22349 feet / 6812 meters
Location	Everest region of Nepal
Best for the Climbing	April, May, late September, October and November
Year First Climbed	1961 March 13 via South-West Ridge
First Climber(s)	Mike Gill, Barry Bishop, Mike Ward & Wally Romanes
Convenient Center(s)	Namche Bazaar
Nearest Major Airport	Kathmandu (minor: Lukla or Phaplu)
Easiest Summit Route	South-West Ridge
Itinerary type	Lodge / Camping
Accommodations	Fixed / Customized
Trek grade	Strenuous
Total days	30 + 6 = 36 days
Total royalty	US$ 2,000 up to 7 members & additional each US$ 300
Garbage deposit	US$ 2000 refundable
Air rescue deposit	US$ 3000.00 for a group (Refundable if not used)
Air fare	US$   184.00 per person to & from Lukla and extra will be charged for over access after 20 kg each
Liaison Officer charge	US $ 1800.00 should be paid by group
Climbing Guide fee	US $ 1200.00 should be paid by group
For program and price	Mail to: info@expeditionnepal.com